After 6 weeks touring around the five Stans that make up Central Asia, I am happy to leave and head to Asia. Standing out of the crowd on a motorbike has made me a target of police. I would be stopped for the smallest traffic infringement, for example, 61km/h in a 60km/h zone. I was lucky and/or well managed by exiting the ‘Stans’ with no major problems. Some of the stories from other travellers include, car stolen by mafia in Russia with a US$5,000 return fee, fake breathalyser readings and intimidation with big guys and guns.
The police and government employees do not earn enough money to support their families and makes it understandable but not acceptable. I have heard stories how government official get positions depending on how much money they can raise for their bosses but the real problem stems from the top. When Presidents exceed their terms, become very wealthy, there is no political opposition and/or rigged elections this filters down the political and government hierarchy to effect everyone. It is so endemic that I can’t see an end to corruption within a generation. Several times I saw cars flagged down by police but the driver just speeds away. By the end I would only stop if there was a boom gate across the road.
CCA is still an interesting place to visit, great people, many interesting cultures and interesting history, especially with the Soviets coming in the 1830s. I believe travelling alone and standing out on my bike has made me a target therefore I was worn out with constantly being on guard – happy to move the next step closer to home.
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