In Turkmenistan there are two visas, transit or tourist. I wanted to see several sights on the Silk Road and the transit visa only enables point A to B between countries. I had a guide riding on the back of the bike for 5 days. The guide meant I did not have to ask for directions, order food, have problems at the borders, or even met the locals. I never got lost or had any hassle - we easily travelled between tourist sites.
On reflection, travelling with a guide is not for me, getting lost and asking for directions is all part of travelling and enables you to meet people. The Lonely Planet guide is all I need.
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Surreal Ashgabat
After two and half months travelling in the hot and dusty Middle East, I drove 150km off the Iranian Plateau to Ashgabat, Turkmenistan – what a different world.
Turkmenistan is the 4th largest producer of natural gas in the world and a former state of the former USSR. Driving into Ashgabat was like stepping into the western world in a desert. The streets were wide, white marble buildings twenty stories high, no dust (women brushing the streets by hand), massive monuments , sports/cultural buildings and green grass everywhere.
Former President Niyazov ruled with an iron fist from the USSR disintegration where he siphoned off billions for himself. The capital had no vibe or lively feel but a newly beautified city. I was taking a photo a monument and an old man gestured where I was from, the reply of Australia brought a smile to his face but my half hearted gesture of ‘great monument’ brought a frown from him.
Turkmenistan is the 4th largest producer of natural gas in the world and a former state of the former USSR. Driving into Ashgabat was like stepping into the western world in a desert. The streets were wide, white marble buildings twenty stories high, no dust (women brushing the streets by hand), massive monuments , sports/cultural buildings and green grass everywhere.
Former President Niyazov ruled with an iron fist from the USSR disintegration where he siphoned off billions for himself. The capital had no vibe or lively feel but a newly beautified city. I was taking a photo a monument and an old man gestured where I was from, the reply of Australia brought a smile to his face but my half hearted gesture of ‘great monument’ brought a frown from him.
Iran - my thoughts
I thought Iran would be an interesting experience due to the news coverage over the last 5 years, nuclear issue, Iraq and Afghan wars and the recent demonstrations. I spent 3 weeks travelling about 5,000 kms from North to South and out to the east - it’s a big place. It is a place that is hard to describe and generalize. I have had some fantastic experiences with generous and engaging people but also experienced rude, hostile and unwelcoming people, which is the minority and first time on my trip.
The first city I arrived at a motorist yelled out his window, "Iran is good, we are not all terrorists". I am aware of the propaganda from Western Governments and this made me think the anti-western propaganda will be high from the Iran regime. I don't like to use the word 'regime’ because it’s used too much by the US government but learning much more about the political system, people, history and discontent of the people, the word sums up the ruling clerics.
Iran was used and abused by Russian and Western governments during the 19th and 20th century and the distrust still helps the regime communicate anti-western propaganda (see my photos). Talking to the people on the street they stated a wide view of thoughts from the government does not understand what the people want, to Iran is like living in a jail. On the Tehran metro people loved to talk and one guy almost in tears described how hard it is living in Iran. There was no apparent caution about speaking in public, which I was surprised about.
To generalise, (its easy to do), there are the minority who support the regime and don't want westerners to visit and there is the majority that want a constitutional change to a secular government and democratically elected government. Iran is the first country I have been asked about immigration, from wanting to learn English by talking to me, questions on how to move to Australia or telling me the immigration paperwork or company transfer is in progress. Iran has a lot to offer the Middle East and the world but I believe a secular state and democracy is required first.
The first city I arrived at a motorist yelled out his window, "Iran is good, we are not all terrorists". I am aware of the propaganda from Western Governments and this made me think the anti-western propaganda will be high from the Iran regime. I don't like to use the word 'regime’ because it’s used too much by the US government but learning much more about the political system, people, history and discontent of the people, the word sums up the ruling clerics.
Iran was used and abused by Russian and Western governments during the 19th and 20th century and the distrust still helps the regime communicate anti-western propaganda (see my photos). Talking to the people on the street they stated a wide view of thoughts from the government does not understand what the people want, to Iran is like living in a jail. On the Tehran metro people loved to talk and one guy almost in tears described how hard it is living in Iran. There was no apparent caution about speaking in public, which I was surprised about.
To generalise, (its easy to do), there are the minority who support the regime and don't want westerners to visit and there is the majority that want a constitutional change to a secular government and democratically elected government. Iran is the first country I have been asked about immigration, from wanting to learn English by talking to me, questions on how to move to Australia or telling me the immigration paperwork or company transfer is in progress. Iran has a lot to offer the Middle East and the world but I believe a secular state and democracy is required first.
Islam Republic - True to its name?
The name of Iran implies a majority would be strict Muslims and observe Ramadan and would be non-alcoholics, but this appears not to be the case.
During Ramadan restaurants are closed (as expected) or have the windows covered and the door half shut. No problem to have lunch but the menu is limited. Sandwich shops have an eat out policy, where you can eat in the park. Travellers are exempt from fasting, so on the freeways there are many picnickers enjoying lunch. I stayed in a guesthouse of a Muslim family where I ate lunch with the father and the mother and daughter ate in a different room – fasting not important but don’t communicate with the foreigner.
Alcohol is illegal in Iran. There is a big black market but I was never able to get any contacts. The locals make a grappa which is added to one of the many malted non-alcoholic fruit beers. I was told in Tehran that everyone gets trashed at home. I went to the Armenian club for dinner, which is the only BYO in Iran, people were drinking European beer, whisky and wine - obviously easy to source.
In southern Iran I was offered opium laced tobacco, which you put between your lip and gum, I declined because the boys who offered it were off their nut and acting weird.
In all countries people practice religion in varying degrees, my assumption before arriving in Iran (where 98% of the population are Muslims) was that the majority would be actively practicing Muslims, ie: attending Friday prayers and Mosques. Among the 10 predominant Muslim countries, Iran has less than 30% weekly Mosque attendance. I now believe Iran’s is similar to other countries where people practice religion as they choose.
During Ramadan restaurants are closed (as expected) or have the windows covered and the door half shut. No problem to have lunch but the menu is limited. Sandwich shops have an eat out policy, where you can eat in the park. Travellers are exempt from fasting, so on the freeways there are many picnickers enjoying lunch. I stayed in a guesthouse of a Muslim family where I ate lunch with the father and the mother and daughter ate in a different room – fasting not important but don’t communicate with the foreigner.
Alcohol is illegal in Iran. There is a big black market but I was never able to get any contacts. The locals make a grappa which is added to one of the many malted non-alcoholic fruit beers. I was told in Tehran that everyone gets trashed at home. I went to the Armenian club for dinner, which is the only BYO in Iran, people were drinking European beer, whisky and wine - obviously easy to source.
In southern Iran I was offered opium laced tobacco, which you put between your lip and gum, I declined because the boys who offered it were off their nut and acting weird.
In all countries people practice religion in varying degrees, my assumption before arriving in Iran (where 98% of the population are Muslims) was that the majority would be actively practicing Muslims, ie: attending Friday prayers and Mosques. Among the 10 predominant Muslim countries, Iran has less than 30% weekly Mosque attendance. I now believe Iran’s is similar to other countries where people practice religion as they choose.
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