Islam Republic - True to its name?

The name of Iran implies a majority would be strict Muslims and observe Ramadan and would be non-alcoholics, but this appears not to be the case.

During Ramadan restaurants are closed (as expected) or have the windows covered and the door half shut. No problem to have lunch but the menu is limited. Sandwich shops have an eat out policy, where you can eat in the park. Travellers are exempt from fasting, so on the freeways there are many picnickers enjoying lunch. I stayed in a guesthouse of a Muslim family where I ate lunch with the father and the mother and daughter ate in a different room – fasting not important but don’t communicate with the foreigner.

Alcohol is illegal in Iran. There is a big black market but I was never able to get any contacts. The locals make a grappa which is added to one of the many malted non-alcoholic fruit beers. I was told in Tehran that everyone gets trashed at home. I went to the Armenian club for dinner, which is the only BYO in Iran, people were drinking European beer, whisky and wine - obviously easy to source.

In southern Iran I was offered opium laced tobacco, which you put between your lip and gum, I declined because the boys who offered it were off their nut and acting weird.

In all countries people practice religion in varying degrees, my assumption before arriving in Iran (where 98% of the population are Muslims) was that the majority would be actively practicing Muslims, ie: attending Friday prayers and Mosques. Among the 10 predominant Muslim countries, Iran has less than 30% weekly Mosque attendance. I now believe Iran’s is similar to other countries where people practice religion as they choose.